I missed the part about needing special tool 11 9 280, and really can't afford to wait a week for delivery. If you don't have any symptoms, don't chase it. Please if you encounter an accessibility or usability issue on this site. Best bet to is to double check. The thermostat housing on 2nd gen Mini is an all plastic housing, and over time almost all of these will fail.
By - June 29, 2016 This article applies to the Mini Cooper 2007-2013. There should be enough slack to get it on and off. If you dont feel comfortable with any of these directions, take it to a shop. Inspect them for any wear or damage, especially whatever part slipped causing the timing issue. Thanks - Shan October 2, 2017 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Timing may be off. However taking the car for a ride and using a Delphi Autocom diagnostic tool, I see that the two cams are out of phase. Thanks for all your help! Unlike most cars, the Mini Cooper uses a metal timing chain rather than a belt made of composite materials.
I know the cam bolts are not. We recommend an oil change every 6 months or 5,000 miles, if you follow this maintenance schedule the timing chain can last the lifetime of the vehicle. The Vanos system requires good oil flow to operate the system. We used the locking tools to position the writing up, flats on the cam even, and lobes as you have pictured. May 13, 2016 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes, just one.
I have not had an issue of it being un-centered. I have no idea where this part belongs and I was not able to find it in parts diagram either. Also, if your engine clatters on first start up, then goes away, then this kit is for you. If this happens we suggest changing the oil and hope that the detergent in the fresh oil cleans the tiny oil passages. October 27, 2016 Followup from the Pelican Staff: it shouldn't have a ton of slack, but won't be tight like a timing chain. Now it's starting to get louder and last a bit longer on cold starts.
Is there any reason I can't remove the hub and pulley as an assembly? Thanks for posting this article. Tightened it down mildly tight. It struggles when first starting but smooths out and seems to run fine. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs. Because these were supposed to be maintenance-free items, they don't typically get checked for wear, and by the time they start making noise, it may be too late.
January 28, 2018 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Try a full 360° while looking for the hole. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs. Run the engine and recheck your work. April 26, 2019 Patrick Comments: I replaced the timing chain in my 2010 R56. I will be buying a preowned one. Read on to see if you are covered.
Even a light impact on a high curb can cause a lot of damage. Take your time installing all removed items and reseal everything with new gaskets. There's a service bulletin out about this exact issue. I've had no luck with turbo sockets or other removal techniques. Symptoms of Timing Chain Failure Simply following the scheduled maintenance on your Mini isn't enough to prevent timing chain issues, and the on-board computer doesn't monitor the condition of the timing chain. They recommended oil change once a year or every 10,000 miles. The good news is that the factory is fixing it under recall.
If you are buying from a dealer ask the salesman if the warranty or extended warranty you were to purchase from them would cover this expense? Information and technical articles within this website are for reference only. See the associated tech articles for these procedures. Every time the camshaft rotates backwards. Then install the camshaft sprockets and tighten the fasteners red arrows. Over time this part does loose tension, you will notice that your chain will rattle but after a while it pumps up and the noise goes, unfortunatley when it has no tension the chain is very loose and can cause damage. It is impossible to see because of the exhaust, but a small inspection mirror may help. I recently replaced the timing guide and tensioner arm on my 06 R53, the guide had chunks out of it and pieces down in the oil pan, not fun.
At the last step, you need to torque both sprockets with the pre-tensioner instead of the tensioner. It typically indicates the plastic guides of the tensioner are worn, or the tensioner itself is not putting proper force on the chain. I'm planning on taking off the valve cover to check to time any other recommendations for me to check? Hardly seems like enough tension for something moving so hard and fast. April 3, 2017 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Risky move, but glad it worked out for you. I ask because I thought I did my homework before tearing into this, and or ordered the cam locking tool set. Loosen those, take them out, remove the screwdriver, and take out the center bolt. Need to buy parts for this project? To meet emissions, the turbo wastegate stays open to warm up the catalytic converter faster.